Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
